Skip to main content

Based in Maryville, Tennessee

Volunteer Tree Co.

Homeowner guide

When Should a Tree Be Removed?

How to tell whether a tree needs to come down, when pruning is enough, and why what's underneath the tree matters as much as the tree itself.

By Volunteer Tree Co. · · 6 min read

Cross-section of a cut trunk showing dark decay spreading from the center

Most trees don't need to come down. A mature shade tree adds value to a property, cools the house, and takes decades to replace. But some trees do need to go, and waiting on those tends to get expensive, either because the tree gets harder to remove safely or because it eventually comes down on its own.

Here's how to think through the decision.

The short answer

A tree should usually be removed when one of these is true:

  • It's dead, or most of it is.
  • It has a structural problem, like decay, a crack, or a bad lean, and it's close enough to hit something that matters.
  • It's in the wrong place and causing damage that pruning can't fix.

Everything else is a judgment call, and a lot of those calls end with pruning instead of removal.

Signs a tree needs to come down

It's dead or mostly dead

A tree with no leaves in the growing season, bark sloughing off in sheets, and twigs that snap instead of bend is dead or close to it. Dead wood gets brittle, and dead trees get more dangerous to climb and cut the longer they stand.

In East Tennessee, a few culprits come up again and again. Emerald ash borer has killed ash trees throughout the region, and dead ash is known for breaking apart quickly. Hemlock woolly adelgid has killed many hemlocks around the Smokies. Pines weakened by drought can be finished off by bark beetles.

The trunk or root flare is decaying

Mushrooms or shelf-like conks growing at the base of the trunk, large cavities, and soft, crumbly wood are signs of decay inside the tree. Some decay is normal and survivable. Extensive decay low on the trunk or in the roots is serious, because that's where the tree carries the most load.

It's leaning, and the lean has changed

Plenty of trees grow with a lean and stand for a hundred years. What matters is whether the lean is new or getting worse. Look for soil that's heaved up or cracked on the side opposite the lean, or roots lifting out of the ground. A tree that shifted after a storm is a tree that's partway to falling.

There's a major crack or a split fork

Trees with two trunks of similar size growing from the same point often have a weak, V-shaped union with bark pinched inside it. Those unions can split apart in wind, sending half the tree down. A crack running down from a fork, or through the trunk, is a warning sign.

The roots were damaged

Construction is hard on trees. Trenching for utilities, pouring a driveway over the root zone, or piling fill dirt around the trunk can kill a tree slowly, over several years. If a tree near new construction starts thinning or losing its top, have it looked at.

Storm damage is too extensive

A tree that lost a few limbs can usually be pruned and kept. A tree that lost a large part of its crown, split down the trunk, or partially uprooted usually can't be saved.

When pruning is enough

If the trunk and roots are sound, many problems can be solved without removal:

  • Dead branches can be taken out, which lowers the risk from a tree you want to keep.
  • Limbs over the roof, driveway, or deck can be cut back for clearance.
  • Long, heavy limbs can be shortened to take weight off before storm season.

Pruning costs less than removal and keeps the shade.

When the location is the problem

Some healthy trees still need to go because of where they're growing:

  • Trees planted too close to the foundation, where roots and limbs will keep causing problems.
  • Trees growing up into power lines, where they'll be cut back hard every few years.
  • Trees whose roots are breaking sewer lines, sidewalks, or driveways.
  • Fast-growing screen trees that have outgrown the space they were planted in.

In these cases, removing the tree and planting something that fits the spot is often the better long-term answer.

Think about what's underneath

Risk isn't just about the tree. It's about what the tree would hit. A dead tree at the back of a wooded lot, far from anything, can often be left standing, and woodpeckers and other wildlife will use it. The same dead tree leaning over your driveway, a play set, or the neighbor's roof needs to come down.

When you walk your property, ask two questions about each tree: is anything wrong with it, and what would it hit if it fell?

Get an honest opinion

A good tree company will tell you when a tree doesn't need to come down. We will. If you need a formal written risk assessment, for an insurance question or a disagreement with a neighbor, an ISA Certified Arborist with the Tree Risk Assessment Qualification is the right person to ask.

For a straight opinion and a price, send a few photos: the whole tree, the base of the trunk, and whatever it's close to. Learn more about tree removal or request a free estimate.

Related guides

Splintered, broken limb hanging from a tree against a blue sky

· 6 min read

Signs a Tree May Be Dangerous

The warning signs to look for in the trees around your house, including decay, cracks, weak forks, root damage, and pests common in East Tennessee.

Uprooted tree lying in a yard with its root plate torn out of the ground

· 6 min read

What to Do When a Tree Falls During a Storm

A calm, step-by-step checklist for when a tree comes down on your house, car, fence, or driveway: safety, power lines, photos, insurance, and cleanup.

Need a tree taken down or a stump ground?

Call, or send a few photos. Estimates are free.

Call Now, Volunteer Tree Co., (865) 489-8733Free Estimate